Saturday, September 11, 2010

Thursday, July 29th, 2010--trip to Channel Islands

Today we woke up early and made a short drive to the Ventura Harbor to catch our shuttle boat to the Channel Islands for two nights of camping courtesy Island Packers. The boat was medium sized boat, our gear stashed below. From the deck as we pulled out of the Harbor we saw a buoy with sea lions stacked one atop the other. As the shoreline pulled away and we came to mid-channel, we were accompanied by a huge congregation of common dolphins and bottlenosed dolphins. They dipped on all sides of the boats, but especially seemed to enjoy swimming just in front of the boat, some of which were mother and child dolphin pairs swimming in tandem. We also passed several oil drilling rigs in mid-channel. There are several Channel Island, we passed one on our left--a narrow island with a distintive arch at its central point. Santa Cruz island, where we stayed, was a long island--100 square miles or so, with 2/3 of the island set aside for the the nature conservancy. When we arrived, fire drilling our gear from the boat, we hiked about a mile to our campsite--at the very far end of the camping area, a pleasant almost level hike.

Our campsite abutted a meadow, populated by large, fragrant eucalyptus trees. Soon we noticed some visitors--an endemic species of fox--smallish with pointed snouts and mongoose like behaviour. They appeared to be very cute, but we had been forewarned that they were quite capable scavengers. We arrived just after 11 am, and hiked up the crest of the valley--a dry and brush valley, from the top of which we could see 500 feet straight down --the island had few beaches, but many dramatic cliffs. Peter and Patrick were warned not to throw rocks since many kayakers and divers circled the island. Smuggler's Cove was the name of the trail. After returned from our hike, we explored the dry creek bed near our tent and made a suprising find: a cormorant waddling around the stones, appearing a little disoriented and weak. We couldn't quite tell its age, but it seemed young. It hid in the shade next to the creek, about a mile from the ocean. Alice Peter and Patrick brought water to it, and it appeared to want to drink it. They dropped water onto its head and feet--setting out a metal pan for it to stand in, which it did for several minutes.

After some deliberation, we decided to take the cormorant back to the water, figuring that perhaps it was a lost young bird, and that the foxes would have their way with it in short order if we didn't--in fact we already saw some lurking in the bushes. We noticed that the bird followed us around when we put it on the ground, so we supposed that it liked us; however we doubted that it could make the 1 mile hike on its own. Alice first tried carrying it in the yellow camping blanket, but quickly noted that tens of small lice quickly made jumped from the bird to the towel, making a quick and queasy migration. Eventually we settled on grabbing the bird with a ziplock bag, and stealthily walked past the other campers and rangers, not knowing what they would think. When we dropped it back in the water, it dabbled around in the shallows, then took off to deeper waters, and we hope, was reunited with it cormorant clan hanging out a few hundred yards offshore on some rocky outcroppings.

While we were at the beach, we managed to strike up a conversation with a kayak guide and arranged to tentatively take a guided tour the following day. We went back to the camp for a dinner with some of our freeze dried foods--beef stroganoff, past due and not so good, mexican rice really good. We enjoyed our first wilderness night in the cool ocean air, but clear skies. We continued with our concentrated reading of the hobbit after putting all of our foodstuff securely away, on our own great adventure!



















Sunday August 1st, 2010--Big Sur

Left early from Ventura. Ate breakfast at Santa Barbara IHOP with fig trees in atrium. went to the outdoors shop for repair kit for Peter's ridge rest, got more dried food and an eggshell mattress.

Talked to Catherine midtown Santa Barbara and travelled around the mission area--wished we had more time.

Started long uncertain drive to hopeful campsites in Big Sur, past Hearst mansion and elephant seal conclave.

Big Sur drive windy and long, impressive and beautiful swooping cliffs, but no campsites anywhere, which dampened our enthusiasm.

Made the full drive to Monterrey to stay at Knight's Inn.






Monday August 2nd--Monterrey Aquarium















Tuesday, August 3rd--Monterrey to Merced

Today we spent the morning in Monterrey--finding a truly nice area to just to the north of Monterrey called Pacific Grove--a neighborhood of houses and a small downtown right on the shores of Monterrey Bay with a walkway and road that traced the coastline, a few 10 to 15 feet below. I found it first in the morning, then went back early to get Alice, and finally after some coffee and a walk we both went back to get the kids. Borg's motel near Lover's Rock seems like a place that we'll return to eventually. The kids climbed down near the water to search the small tide pools and watch the seals and sea otters on the nearby rocks.

We continued our trip around the peninsula past Asilomar, where Alice visited as a youth and continued to Point Lobos Natural preserve where we spend several hours on the rugged shoreline at various points looking for lizards and birds, and touring an old whaling museum. Peter and Patrick climbed down for a shore walk at one point, while I hiked up a knoll for a broader lookout, all surrounded by Poison Oak, and signs warning about Poison Oak. Across the bay Pebble Beach golf course was visible in the far distance.

We travelled lengthwise across the state, north past Santa Cruz across the coast range and into the hot central valley, stopping at an enterprisingly developed, but not very satisfying road venue called Casa de Oro, or some such. Many treats, and a few good fruits, but otherwise seeming like a bit of a fraud. Passing into the valley we lost touch with the cooling clouds of the coast, and the greenery there in favor of short dry grasses and wide vistas overlooking the valley.

We travelled until early evening and made landfall at a place where we had been before--the Motel 8 that Alice had liked, but that I was lukewarm about. Nonetheless, it provided a nice overnight stopping point with a very warm pool and the sultry slow cool of the valley overnight. Before sleeping we went to an In and Out Burger to continue our love affair with their animal fries and burgers--trains loudly whistling past us on the nearby train tracks.





















Friday July 30th, 2010--Hiking and Kayaking on the Channel Islands

Today, we woke up slowly after our first camping night. The skies were cloudy, as is typical for an ocean island, and a little cool. Today our plan was to hike out to Smuggler's Cove--which we thought might be a swimmable beach on this cliff-laden island. We knew the hike was about 7 miles total, but we weren't quite prepared for the elevation gain, and eventually the strong sunshine the beat down with very little relief as the island had few trees.

The hike went south and west on the island--and mostly uphill for the first section of the hike--maybe the first 2.5 miles, even with the shortcuts. The topography was interesting but a little monotonous. The trail led steeply down to Smugglers cove, though an old Olive tree grove, making it seem quite mediterrean in flavor. We were very tired and overheated when we arrived at the cove, and quickly disappointed at the lack of beach. Small but frequent waves crashed against the rocky cove, cobbled with agates, and not good for swimming due to the pull of the waves and the chilliness of the water. Beachcombing, we found a frond of a palm tree that appeared to be an ancient, weathered bone, as well as a well presevered squashed lizard, and several agates. However, we quickly took back to the trail--up the steep first section then onward with a slow descent.

We decided to have only Peter and Alice go on the kayak trip--Patrick was tired, and our sense was that the trip wouldn't be as enjoyed, given Peter's enthusiasm. Their guide's name was John, a fellow about our age who led kayak trips on the island and lived in Lone Pine, California. They learned a lot about the island on the trip, most particularly how to ride into a sea cave, leaning back instead of forward. They saw a flying fish while paddling out to the many cliffs and caves on the island. The first island was a rookery for gulls and cormorants. The first was the Green Room, a tunnel that went through the entire island. The ceiling started high but got narrower when paddling through.

They learned a great deal about the natural history and peoples of the island--the chumiak. They also about the Spanish explorers who left prickly pear and pigs on each island they visited in the expectation that they would multiply by the time they returned. They also learned about the Russian fur trappers almost decimated the native population in addition to nearly extinguishing the otter population. They also saw harbor seals and keyhole limpets, and lots of sea stars. They travelled many kelp beds, and three other caves--all of which had stories and interesting features--tidal changes that meant that they had to wait. By the time they returned to shore, Patrick and I had dinner cooked on the cool shores, which we enjoyed before returning for our last camping night on the island.








Saturday, July 30th, 2010--back from Channel Island

Today we returned from the Channel Island, decided against a road trip to San Sebastian to camp--instead stayed another night at the Vagabond Inn in Ventura after no luck finding a motel in Santa Barbara--setting us behind a little in our trip up the coast--something that would continue for a few days.

Also: Peter and Patrick snorkled in Santa Cruz kelp bed in scorpion cove.

* found scorpion during canyon hike, but no snakes
* had dinner at fish and chips, swam a little
* Alice did laundry downtown
* had smelly smokers


hotel room.








Tuesday, August 10th--Coyote peaks